In July, despite the arrival of the monsoon rains, I embarked on an adventurous journey to Nubtsonapata, affectionately known as “The Great Lake of the West,” in Bhutan’s stunning Haa Valley. For this trek, I teamed up with my trusted guide, Kencho Dorji, who had previously accompanied me on the Meri Puensum hike a year earlier. We also befriended a porter headed to the same pasturelands, making for a lively and enriching trek together.
The Trek Begins
The trek to Nubtsonapata offers multiple routes, but we chose the trail frequently used by local herders, beginning at Bjanadingkha. This quaint lhakhang sits atop a hill about 6-7 kilometers from Haa town and serves as the nearest road-accessible starting point. Navigating the monsoon-soaked farm roads required a sturdy four-wheel drive, and after a bumpy Bolero ride, I met Kencho and our porter at the trailhead. From there, we began our ascent, weaving through lush alpine forests. After about 30 minutes, we reached Talikha, the first resting point, where we paused for tea and snacks. At this junction, the trail splits—one path leading to Nubtsonapata and the other to Meri Puensum.
As we continued our hike, the trail led us through some of the most beautiful green alpine forests I’ve ever seen. Unlike the Meri Puensum trail, the Nubtsonapata route lacks resting areas or facilities, except for a solitary guesthouse in the vicinity. After six hours of trekking, we arrived at Tshotshokha, where Kencho, my yak herder friend, awaited us with warm milk tea and a hot meal, a much-needed treat before we called it a night.
Reaching Nubtsonapata
The next morning, Kencho guided us towards Nubtsonapata. The journey from Tshotshokha to the lake spans 13 kilometers, taking about six hours. Along the way, we reached Regina, the second-highest point of the trek at 4,300 meters. Here, the landscape transformed into a dreamscape of trees adorned with pink and purple flowers, providing a perfect spot for tea and snacks. The panoramic view of the surrounding mountains was nothing short of spectacular.
As we resumed our trek, we encountered nomads and their laden horses returning from Haa town. One particularly charming horse caught my attention, and I couldn’t resist taking over as its handler for an hour, until a rare white poppy flower growing near the lake stream distracted me. By the time we approached the highest peak of the trek, standing tall at 4,400 meters, the weather turned treacherous. Torrential rain drenched us to the skin, and the muddy, slippery trails tested our endurance. Despite the challenges, we pushed on like determined mountaineers, finally reaching the nomads’ camp near the lake.
Life at the Camp
Arriving at the camp, wet, tired, and ravenous, we were welcomed by two yak herders living near the lake. Their simple yet warm hospitality turned a grueling day into a memorable experience. Our host prepared dinner and offered us cozy beds in his hut. Sharing a small space with my male companions felt less like an inconvenience and more like an adventure. As the only woman, I felt cherished by their care and attention.
Exploring the Great Lake
The next morning, the skies cleared just enough to grant us a magnificent view of Nubtsonapata. Taking the shortest route, we reached the emerald-green expanse of the lake, where we burned incense and meditated amidst the tranquil surroundings. The lake, vast and serene, seemed untouched by time, its stillness broken only by the flutter of prayer flags and the occasional chirping of birds. Locals believe the lake’s water level remains constant year-round, a testament to its mystical nature. At the base, pilgrims often gather to offer prayers, leaving behind butter lamps as symbols of devotion.
A Trek to Remember
The Nubtsonapata trek is a test of both endurance and spirit. From battling rain and slippery trails to marveling at the lake’s breathtaking beauty, every moment felt like an achievement. The journey offered not only a deeper connection to Bhutan’s natural splendor but also a profound appreciation for the nomads who navigate these rugged terrains with ease. If you’re seeking an offbeat adventure that combines physical challenge with spiritual serenity, Nubtsonapata should undoubtedly be on your list. Despite the rain-soaked clothes and aching muscles, I left the lake with a heart full of gratitude and memories to last a lifetime.
