The breathtaking Meri Puensum Mountains, also known as the “Three Brothers,” are the first to catch your eye upon arriving in Bhutan’s Haa Valley. These sharp, iconic peaks dominate the landscape, offering both spiritual and natural allure. Deeply revered by locals, the three mountains are believed to embody gods—Jampelyang (Manjushri) in the north, Chana Dorji (Vajrapani) in the middle, and Chenrezig (Avalokiteshvara) in the south. To protect this heritage, the Meri Puensum Heritage Forest was established in 2016, spanning 563.57 hectares. Despite the trail’s beauty, it remains relatively undiscovered by both locals and tourists, making it an exceptional choice for hikers seeking a unique and peaceful adventure.
Drawn by the allure of the mountains, I decided to embark on the Meri Puensum Nature Trail during my visit to Haa. While I initially planned to hike solo, the locals and my host warned me about potential dangers, such as encountering bears or losing the trail. Fortunately, I was able to join a local hiker group led by Kencho Dorji, a trained guide from Dumcho village, and a seasoned yak herder who had spent 12 years living in the mountains. Their expertise and lively company made the hike both safer and more enriching.
On the morning of August 8, 2018, my third day in Haa, we began our trek at Lhakhang Karpo, a revered temple where locals traditionally offer butter lamps and incense before starting their hike. This ritual marks the beginning of the spiritual circumambulation of the three sacred hills. From the temple, we walked to the end of a feeder road in Dumcho village before entering the nature trail. The initial climb was a zigzagging uphill path through dense pine forests, challenging yet invigorating. Along the way, we crossed streams, counting a total of 13 wooden bridges, three resting areas, and three canopies that offered shelter and respite.
The trail was well-maintained, though the initial section had multiple routes that could confuse first-time hikers. Once we reached the first canopy, the path leveled out, and the views became increasingly spectacular. The highest point of the trail offered panoramic vistas of Chelela Pass, the majestic Meri Puensum, and even the rare sight of Jomolhari on a clear day. Green meadows stretched out below, dotted with peacefully grazing domestic animals. At the second canopy, surrounded by wildflowers and fragrant incense, we paused for lunch before continuing to Talela, located at an altitude of 3,600 meters.
A stupa at Talela marked the junction between the trail leading to Nubtshonapa and the route descending back to the Haa Valley plains. As we began our descent, rain made the trail slippery, leading to a few tumbles, including one that left me with a bruised arm. The downhill trek crossed more bridges and streams, eventually leading us to the third and final canopy. From there, the hike became much easier, though one of my companions struggled due to a knee injury. The trail ended near a suspension bridge opposite Gongzim Ugyen Dorji Central School, marking the conclusion of our journey.
The Meri Puensum Nature Trail was an extraordinary experience, offering a harmonious blend of spiritual and natural beauty. Hiking through dense forests and climbing to the mountaintop at 3,800 meters above sea level felt like breathing in pure wilderness. The view from the top, overlooking the Haa Valley and its surrounding peaks, was simply breathtaking. If you’re visiting Haa, the Meri Puensum hike should be a must on your itinerary. Whether for the stunning landscapes, the rich cultural significance, or the serene solitude of the mountains, this trek promises an unforgettable adventure.
