Bhutan’s sparkling mountain streams and powerful rivers meandering through lush valleys are perfect for adventure seekers, yet water sports like river rafting remain relatively unexplored by locals. For many Bhutanese, activities such as rafting and kayaking are perceived as experiences tailored for tourists. However, Bhutan’s six major rivers—including the Wang Chhu, Sunkosh, Puna Tsang Chhu, Mangde Chhu, Kuri Chhu, and Dangme Chhu—are ideal for kayaking and rafting. These rivers, first scouted for water adventures in the mid-90s, offer a mix of class III and IV rapids, making them suitable for varying levels of expertise.
While the Tourism Council of Bhutan recommends March to April and November to December as the best seasons for rafting, I decided to embrace the thrill of monsoon rafting in June to experience the swollen river’s roaring currents. In Punakha, adventurers can choose between the calmer Mo Chhu River and the more challenging Pho Chhu River, both offering unique rafting experiences amidst breathtaking landscapes.
First River Rafting Adventure
Accompanied by a group of close friends, I ventured into the Mo Chhu River rapids with the Druk Rafting Service Company. None of us had rafted before, so the excitement was palpable. Upon arriving at the base point near the suspension bridge to the stunning Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, we were greeted warmly by the crew. They swiftly fitted us with safety gear, including helmets and life jackets, ensuring we were prepared for the adventure ahead. For first-timers like us, the guide’s detailed safety briefing instilled confidence and set the stage for an exhilarating journey.
As we launched into the river, the guide expertly led our team, shouting commands like “Paddle!”, “Rest!”, and “Back!”—which we echoed with enthusiasm, feeling like a synchronized squad of adventurers. The initial rapids were exhilarating as we maneuvered through whirlpools and foamy white waters, shouting with joy and adrenaline-fueled excitement. However, the second set of rapids downstream took the thrill up a notch, with stronger currents and more challenging whirlpools. For those seeking even greater adventure, the Pho Chhu River promises heart-pounding rapids caused by rocky outcrops and turbulent waters.
During the monsoon, the rivers swell to twice their size, turning a rich brownish hue due to continuous rainfall, creating a stark contrast to their smaller, calmer, and crystal-clear appearance in the fall and winter. As we paddled downstream, we were treated to the vibrant sights and sounds of the Punakha Valley—farmers tending to their fields, cattle grazing on lush pastures, and colorful bird species soaring above the riverbanks.
Moments to Remember
Midway through the rafting trip, we stopped by the riverside for a refreshing swim. For swimmers, the sparkling pools offer a chance to cool off and revel in the river’s beauty. To add to the enjoyment, we cracked open chilled cans of beer, which perfectly complemented the exhilarating experience. The trip concluded at the Zomlingthang campsite, nestled among pine trees. Historically, this area served as community pastureland, and today, it offers a serene end to the rafting adventure. The majestic Punakha Dzong, located a few kilometers downstream, adds a touch of grandeur to the surroundings.
While rafting was once allowed beyond the Dzong, it is now restricted due to objections from the authorities and the monk body. Nevertheless, the experience upstream remains nothing short of extraordinary. At Zomlingthang, the friendly Druk Rafting Service team welcomed us with hot tea and snacks. The campsite was well-equipped with restrooms and showers, ensuring comfort after a day of adventure. As night fell, a warm bonfire and a delicious dinner brought the perfect close to an unforgettable day.
The following morning, we woke up to the comforting aroma of hot coffee, reflecting on our incredible journey. For anyone visiting Punakha, river rafting is a must-try adventure. It’s not just about the thrill of conquering rapids—it’s about connecting with Bhutan’s pristine nature, soaking in the valley’s vibrant energy, and creating memories that last a lifetime. Whether you’re an experienced rafter or a first-timer like us, Punakha’s rivers promise an experience you’ll never forget.
